When we think of machine embroidery, we often focus on the design, the threads, and the fabric. However, one essential tool that often goes unnoticed is the needle. Believe it or not, the needle can make or break your embroidery project. Choosing the right needle ensures smooth stitching, helps prevent thread breakage, and protects your fabric from damage. In this guide, we’ll explore the different types of special machine embroidery needles and help you figure out which one to use for your next project.

Why Needles Are So Important

At first glance, needles may seem like minor tools in the grand scheme of embroidery. However, using the wrong needle can lead to frustrating problems. Issues like thread breakage, skipped stitches, and even fabric damage often occur when the needle isn’t suited to the material or thread being used.

The needle plays a vital role in linking the design, thread, and fabric. If you don’t use the correct needle, your thread might snag or break, or you could even ruin your fabric with holes or puckering. Understanding the different types of needles and when to use them can help you avoid these problems and create flawless embroidery every time.

The Different Types of Needles in Machine Embroidery

Different projects and materials require different needles. Let’s dive into the most common types of special needles used in machine embroidery and explain when each should be used.

1. Embroidery Needles

Embroidery needles are the standard needles used in most embroidery projects. They are designed specifically for machine embroidery, featuring a larger eye to allow delicate embroidery threads, like rayon or polyester, to pass through without breaking. The large eye reduces friction and prevents fraying, which is especially important when embroidering at high speeds.

The needle also has a special “scarf” (an indentation above the eye) that allows the hook to catch the thread easily, reducing the chance of skipped stitches. Embroidery needles come in various sizes, with 75/11 being the most common for general use. Smaller needles like 60/8 are used for finer fabrics, while larger ones, such as 90/14, are ideal for heavier fabrics.

When to Use: Use embroidery needles for most everyday projects on fabrics like cotton, polyester, or linen. They are perfect for tasks like stitching logos, monograms, or decorative designs.

2. Ballpoint Needles

Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip, unlike sharp-pointed needles. The rounded tip allows the needle to slide between the fibers of knit fabrics rather than piercing them, preventing damage like runs or tears. Ballpoint needles are designed for stretchy fabrics, making them ideal for garments like T-shirts and sportswear.

These needles are typically used on materials like jersey, interlock, and other knits. A ballpoint needle ensures that your embroidery stitches come out clean and smooth, without pulling or distorting the fabric. They come in sizes like 70/10 and 75/11, which are most commonly used for knit fabrics.

When to Use: Anytime you’re working with stretchy or knit fabrics, like T-shirts, baby clothes, or sportswear, use a ballpoint needle to avoid damaging the fabric and achieve smooth stitches.

3. Metallic Needles

Metallic threads add a beautiful shine to embroidery projects, but they can be difficult to work with. Metallic threads tend to fray, break, or snag more easily than regular embroidery threads, which can be frustrating. To solve this problem, use metallic needles.

Metallic needles have an even larger eye than standard embroidery needles. This larger eye reduces friction on the metallic thread, allowing it to pass through the needle smoothly without breaking. These needles also have a special groove that helps guide the thread through the fabric without damage.

When to Use: Whenever you’re using metallic threads to add sparkle to your designs, switch to a metallic needle. This will help prevent thread breakage and ensure that your design comes out smoothly.

4. Titanium-Coated Needles

For large or tough projects, titanium-coated needles are an excellent choice. These needles are much more durable than standard embroidery needles because of their titanium coating, which makes them resistant to wear and heat. Titanium needles last up to five times longer than regular needles, making them perfect for heavy-duty embroidery or long stitching sessions.

Titanium needles maintain their sharpness longer, making them ideal for thick fabrics like denim, canvas, or leather. If you’re embroidering for long periods or working with thick, tough materials, a titanium-coated needle will reduce the number of needle changes needed.

When to Use: Use titanium-coated needles when working on thick fabrics or when embroidering for extended periods. They are especially helpful in quilting, upholstery, or large-scale commercial projects.

5. Wedge Point Needles

When embroidering on tough materials like leather, vinyl, or suede, regular needles just won’t cut it. Wedge point needles are designed to create small slits rather than punch holes in these materials, resulting in cleaner stitches and less damage to the fabric.

Wedge point needles are commonly used in projects like leather jackets, bags, or car seat covers. Their cutting edge allows the needle to penetrate tough surfaces without causing tearing or damage.

When to Use: These needles are the best choice for working on tough, non-fabric materials like leather, vinyl, or suede. They help create crisp, clean stitches while protecting the material from damage.

Choosing the Right Needle Size

In addition to selecting the correct type of needle, you also need to use the right size. Needle sizes are usually represented by two numbers, such as 75/11 or 90/14. The first number is the European size, and the second is the American size. A smaller number indicates a finer needle, while a larger number represents a thicker needle.

Here’s a general guide to needle sizes and their best uses:

  • 60/8: Best for fine, delicate fabrics like silk or organza.
  • 75/11: Good for medium-weight fabrics like cotton or polyester.
  • 90/14: Ideal for heavyweight fabrics like denim, canvas, or thick towels.

Using the wrong size needle can result in problems like thread breaks, skipped stitches, or fabric damage. Always match the needle size to your fabric to ensure that the needle passes through smoothly without leaving holes or causing puckering.

metallic threads in machine embroidery designs

Pairing Needles with Threads

The type of thread you use also affects which needle you should choose. Some threads are more delicate than others and require special needles to prevent issues like fraying, snapping, or tangling.

  • Rayon and Polyester Threads: These are common embroidery threads that work well with standard embroidery needles.
  • Metallic Threads: Always use a metallic needle with metallic threads to avoid breaking and shredding.
  • Thicker Threads (e.g., 30-weight): Use a larger needle, like a 90/14, when working with thicker threads to accommodate the thread’s size.

Matching your needle to the thread ensures that your embroidery project will run smoothly and result in beautiful, even stitches.

Knowing When to Change Your Needle

Even high-quality needles wear out over time. As the needle dulls, you may start to notice issues like skipped stitches, frequent thread breaks, or fabric damage. Here are some signs that it’s time to replace your needle:

  • Frequent thread breaks: If your thread keeps snapping, the needle may be too worn down.
  • Skipped stitches: A dull or bent needle might miss stitches, leaving gaps in your design.
  • Fabric damage: If your fabric starts puckering or tearing, it may be time for a new needle.

As a general rule, change your needle after every large project or after about 8 to 10 hours of stitching. Replacing a worn needle ensures that your embroidery remains crisp and clean.

Embroidery Digitizing Services

A Quick Note on Absolute Digitizing

Choosing the right needle is crucial, but another factor that plays a big role in the success of your embroidery is the quality of the digitized design. Absolute Digitizing is a professional service that converts your designs into machine-readable embroidery files. Their team ensures that your designs stitch smoothly, with fewer thread breaks and minimal color changes. Offering competitive pricing and fast turnaround, Absolute Digitizing helps ensure that your embroidery projects run as smoothly as possible.

Conclusion: Making Your Embroidery Projects Shine

Though small, the needle is one of the most important tools in machine embroidery. Selecting the right type—whether it’s a ballpoint for knit fabrics or a metallic needle for shiny threads—can make a huge difference in the quality of your work. Pairing your needle with the correct fabric and thread helps avoid common problems like thread breaks, skipped stitches, and fabric damage.

Remember to change your needle regularly and watch for signs of wear, like frequent thread breaks or fabric damage. And, if you want to ensure your design stitches out perfectly, consider using professionals like Absolute Digitizing to convert your designs into embroidery-ready files.

With the right tools and a bit of practice, you’ll be able to create stunning embroidery projects that stand out and leave a lasting impression.